This exhibition traces the development of one of America's most innovative 20th century jewelry firms and will include design renderings and approximately 150 pieces of jewelry, jewelry molds, design layouts from fashion publications and other ephemera. Seaman Schepps was born in 1881, son of immigrants who lived on New York's Delancey Street. He opened his first jewelry shop in 1904 in Los Angeles and eventually made his way back to New York with stores on Madison Avenue. From 1930 to the late 1950s his clientele included Coco Chanel, the Duchess of Windsor, Katharine Hepburn and Rosalind Russell, to name a few. The Washington Post named him "America's Court Jeweler," for the commissioned pieces for the White House families.

While Schepps used precious stones such as diamonds and rubies, his work became as well known for his innovative use of a diversity of natural materials. Seashells, sandalwood, walnut, and carved rock crystals were among the various natural materials he incorporated into his designs. For Schepps' designs, these materials were as important as diamonds and emeralds, and accorded the same devotion and importance. In Schepps' jewelry, craftsmanship was primary. Schepps' interest in Asian art also led him to incorporate Asian design into his works.

Works depicted here include:

Koi Fish Earrings, c. 1955
coral, turquoise enamel, turquoise, cultured pearls, diamonds, gold
30mm
photo: David Behl

original drawing for Koi Fish Earrings
photo: David Behl

Butterfly Compact, 1950
yellow sapphire, blue sapphire, emerald, spinel, ruby and diamond butterfly mounted on a gold powder box
78mm
photo: David Behl

original drawing for Butterfly Compact
photo: David Behl

Nine Strand Pearl Bracelet, 1945
white gold, pearl, emerald, ruby, sapphire, diamond
190mm
photo: David Behl

Floral Fantasy Brooch, c. 1945
sapphire, emerald, ruby, diamonds, yellow and white gold
80mm
photo: David Behl